The Chartolani Family

So I could not just write 3 lines in my previous post about this amazing family that hosted us for almost 2 weeks in Mestia, because it could not describe this family.

We got a recommendation for Roza’s guest house from a Polish girl in Tbilisi, and because we didn’t want to go to the common Israeli guest house like Nino Ratiani or Shalva and Nargiza which is not even in Svaneti, we decided that it’s a good idea to use this recommendation.

Rozas guest house is located nicely in the center of Mestia, 100m above the police station. She has about 6-7 rooms which are nice and comfortable. You can stay there for 20 Lari and you can get breakfast for 5 and dinner for 15. Rosa is a great cook and the breakfast is highly recommended.

Roza’s family name is Shukvani. Rosa’s husband’s name is Vito Chatrolani and with them lives the grandfather of the family, Chxvimliani. Next to them live other Chartolani family members. The Chartolani family is a very ancient (is an established and very big) one. They have two Svan guardian towers from the 12^th century, and an ancient church which in accordance with Vito (Rosa’s husband) goes all the way to the 9^th century. Right now the family is separated and there is about 100 Chartolani family members in Georgia.  Many of them still leave in the houses of their ancestors in Svaneti (Mestia and Lentaki), some were exiled by the communists to the border of Azerbaijan and some moved to the big city Tbilisi.

The family is very known in Mestia. They hold many guest houses, they have famous climbers, teachers and generally it’s an educated family.

Rosa & Vito (taken from Rosas facebok)

The hospitality in Rosas house is incredible. The family is always happy to see you.

Rosa and her daughters Tamari and Ana speak English and always happy to answer any question. Vito knows Russian and will happily explain you all the routes and your options in Mestia. If you happened to get home at dinner time you will always be invited for a glass of wine or a shot of Chacha, depends on the time of your arrival.

Their Grandpa Chxvimliani speaks only Svan language but he is one of the most amazing people I’ve met. He is proud of the family and will gladly show you his parents and grandparents photos. During one of the evenings, when we were drinking, I raised a toast for our parents and for him - They are the one to thank that we are here in this world, and that we have a home, an education and everything we have we owe them. He was so touched that he brought all the photos of his parents, showed us them and then he gave me his knife for a sign of respect and gratitude – a knife of a mountain men is very important for him …

grandpa Chxvimliani

                                                      

For us this family became ours, even if it was only for 2 weeks. When we got lost and needed a rescue they did all the calls and got us the rescue in 5 minutes, and when we came back to the house Rosa had a warm dinner for us and Vito made sure that we will go to sleep drunk so we won’t have bad dreams.

They treated us as we were their brothers, we were invited to a celebration of a new borne Chartolani (Georgiy) -  Marta’s brother son , we had chacha and wine with the family and heard their stories. We heard Grandpa telling toasts and singing Georgian songs , we saw the respect which all the other give him as the head of the big family.

Marta and Ira

me and Chxvimliani

celebrating the entire family guest and our friend Cornell

When we were leaving it was sad. We felt that we are leaving our new very good friends even a family, it’s really hard to explain how a bond like this happens in such a short time. But if you come with your hart open to the people in Georgia they will hug you and accept you like you are a family.

This is Georgia , if you let it happened it will.

Mshvidobas Gaumargos (peace in Georgian)